Increasing suspension travel on a Mac-strut

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts
  • akopan
    mmmBAAAH
    • Oct 2018
    • 73

    Increasing suspension travel on a Mac-strut

    So, my RSX is pretty stroke-deficient, especially the front end when lowered. I'm thinking about ways to increase my strut travel without sending in my Koni's to get them shortened. Beyond adding caster (which barely adds any travel), one idea I came across was modifying or making custom camber plates that mount on top of the strut tower, instead of underneath like stock/standard.

    I am a bit worried about increased/focused load on the strut tower, and potentially damaging it, so I think some reinforcement would be necessary.

    Has anyone done this? Am I making sense? Pics of someone else doing this back when RSX was in STF.
    You may only view thumbnails in this gallery. This gallery has 3 photos.
  • haroldk
    SPD
    • Feb 2003
    • 3042

    #2
    Top mount plates are for sure available for the 944. Those pictures look like how I'd do it with the plate on the bottom of the tower. I wouldn't want to just use nuts and washers down there, but I think with a plate the same footprint as the original mount, you'd be fine.

    Edit: This is how Ground Control does it for the 944.
    Last edited by haroldk; 05-14-2019, 11:14 AM.
    #beliketodd

    Proud recipient of the 2015 Paul Weidner Spirit of the Sport award.

    Comment

    • the tick
      Home of F.R.E.
      • Jun 2002
      • 9043

      #3
      This style camber plates were available for Subaru's as well. I also made a set for a local STF Mini a few years back.

      If you go this route: 1) make sure you have as much coverage as possible on the under side (ie spread the load). 2) Try to get the top to fit flush with the tower sheet metal (not on stand offs like in your pic). This will help support the tower to minimise distortion.

      You will need to come up with a top "spring seat" that will reach the camber plate, the THAT running through the hole in the tower is what will limit your adjustment range. So work out THAT detail first to make sure you have the adjustment range you need before doing all the other work.
      John Mensch

      2011 Driver of the Year.
      Proud recipient of the 2008 Paul Weidner "Spirit of the Sport" award.
      Founder of F.rugal R.acing E.nterprises. (FRE) "It's not F.R.E.E., but it's close....."

      Quote section;
      Resentment: It's like taking poison and waiting for the other person to die...
      "If there is no plan, what can go wrong!" - Some Clown
      "I like to think of myself as thrifty, cheap sounds so.......cheap." - Same Clown
      To quote a wise man I once knew; "If you can't have a little fun what good are you?"

      Comment

      • akopan
        mmmBAAAH
        • Oct 2018
        • 73

        #4
        Thanks for the input. I'm thinking about just modifying my current Tein plates to make this work, possibly flipping the spherical bearing mount on the plate so the studs are pointing down, or hammering out the studs all together and using a threaded rod or carriage bolt of some sort.
        John you make a good point about being limited in adjustment by the clearance hole and spring seat interfering.
        Harold, I am thinking for the plate underneath, I might just cut the center out of some stock top mounts that I have laying around since they are OEM fitment.

        Comment

        • BriK
          [Clever Phrase]
          • Dec 2010
          • 1127

          #5
          Originally posted by akopan View Post
          Thanks for the input. I'm thinking about just modifying my current Tein plates to make this work, possibly flipping the spherical bearing mount on the plate so the studs are pointing down, or hammering out the studs all together and using a threaded rod or carriage bolt of some sort.
          John you make a good point about being limited in adjustment by the clearance hole and spring seat interfering.
          Harold, I am thinking for the plate underneath, I might just cut the center out of some stock top mounts that I have laying around since they are OEM fitment.
          In the end, is that easier, more cost-efficient, and roughly as effective as getting the Konis shortened?

          I don't know the cost or time involved but another member here was offered free shock shortening. Granted, IIRC, that was a result of a one-to-one conversation at PRI with MCS but, I believe, the rationale for free service was that motorsports-focused shocks should accommodate a lowered car.
          Brian K.
          #16 Marshmallow Miata

          Comment

          • engifineer
            Pokin' Stick
            • Mar 2007
            • 4362

            #6
            I would at least get shortening quoted. Of course the other thing to think about is downtime during autox season, which drives a lot of decisions around here! You can work on parts that you can install at home and still use the car vs sending off your shocks for weeks. Koni does not do any revalving or building internally anymore. The only time Koni does that work is at nats. So if you wanted to quote lead time and cost , I would contact Pro Parts out in CA and see what Jeff has to say. He is kind of rushing a revalve of my TC Klines (Koni 8242's) after spring nats. But, shortening the bodies will likely take some time, so it may not fit with autox events this summer
            2001 S2000
            Proud Recipient of the 2019 Spirit of the Sport Award

            Originally posted by 86SVO
            ..... then I found a broken chuck of plastic bumper cover to use as "paper".



            No one really listens to anyone else, and if you try it for a while you'll see why. - Mignon McLaughlin

            Comment

            • gerglumuff
              codriving *****
              • Jun 2011
              • 2298

              #7
              probably best to just raise it up a 1/4 inch. god knows what the lower suspension arm angles are doing with it that low anyway.
              2016 plans unknown. Have winter storage, tools and money.

              #carsnotkids

              Comment

              • akopan
                mmmBAAAH
                • Oct 2018
                • 73

                #8
                Originally posted by gerglumuff View Post
                probably best to just raise it up a 1/4 inch. god knows what the lower suspension arm angles are doing with it that low anyway.
                yeah that's what I've done for now.

                Originally posted by engifineer View Post
                I would at least get shortening quoted. Of course the other thing to think about is downtime during autox season, which drives a lot of decisions around here! You can work on parts that you can install at home and still use the car vs sending off your shocks for weeks. Koni does not do any revalving or building internally anymore. The only time Koni does that work is at nats. So if you wanted to quote lead time and cost , I would contact Pro Parts out in CA and see what Jeff has to say. He is kind of rushing a revalve of my TC Klines (Koni 8242's) after spring nats. But, shortening the bodies will likely take some time, so it may not fit with autox events this summer
                Yeah I will get a quote, but would wait till fall to ship them off. And yeah, part of the "fun" for me is DIY-ing and saving some $$$. I assume shipping alone would be $25-$50 bucks for the struts, plus a few hundred for shortening not to mention being unable to hear VTEC kick in for some time . Maybe I should buy some 8611 race inserts instead at that point... Well, if I start tinkering with some top mounted plates, I'll be sure to update the thread with progress.

                ​​​​

                Comment

                Working...
                X