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Increasing suspension travel on a Mac-strut

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  • Increasing suspension travel on a Mac-strut

    So, my RSX is pretty stroke-deficient, especially the front end when lowered. I'm thinking about ways to increase my strut travel without sending in my Koni's to get them shortened. Beyond adding caster (which barely adds any travel), one idea I came across was modifying or making custom camber plates that mount on top of the strut tower, instead of underneath like stock/standard.

    I am a bit worried about increased/focused load on the strut tower, and potentially damaging it, so I think some reinforcement would be necessary.

    Has anyone done this? Am I making sense? Pics of someone else doing this back when RSX was in STF.

  • #2
    Top mount plates are for sure available for the 944. Those pictures look like how I'd do it with the plate on the bottom of the tower. I wouldn't want to just use nuts and washers down there, but I think with a plate the same footprint as the original mount, you'd be fine.

    Edit: This is how Ground Control does it for the 944.
    Last edited by haroldk; 05-14-2019, 11:14 AM.
    The Forsche 948: Engine in the front, drive to the rear, and a big smiling piece of meat in the middle.

    Proud recipient of the 2015 Paul Weidner Spirit of the Sport award.

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    • #3
      This style camber plates were available for Subaru's as well. I also made a set for a local STF Mini a few years back.

      If you go this route: 1) make sure you have as much coverage as possible on the under side (ie spread the load). 2) Try to get the top to fit flush with the tower sheet metal (not on stand offs like in your pic). This will help support the tower to minimise distortion.

      You will need to come up with a top "spring seat" that will reach the camber plate, the THAT running through the hole in the tower is what will limit your adjustment range. So work out THAT detail first to make sure you have the adjustment range you need before doing all the other work.
      John Mensch

      2011 Driver of the Year.
      Proud recipient of the 2008 Paul Weidner "Spirit of the Sport" award.
      Founder of F.rugal R.acing E.nterprises. (FRE) "It's not F.R.E.E., but it's close....."

      Quote section;
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      To quote a wise man I once knew; "If you can't have a little fun what good are you?"

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      • #4
        Thanks for the input. I'm thinking about just modifying my current Tein plates to make this work, possibly flipping the spherical bearing mount on the plate so the studs are pointing down, or hammering out the studs all together and using a threaded rod or carriage bolt of some sort.
        John you make a good point about being limited in adjustment by the clearance hole and spring seat interfering.
        Harold, I am thinking for the plate underneath, I might just cut the center out of some stock top mounts that I have laying around since they are OEM fitment.

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        • #5
          Originally posted by akopan View Post
          Thanks for the input. I'm thinking about just modifying my current Tein plates to make this work, possibly flipping the spherical bearing mount on the plate so the studs are pointing down, or hammering out the studs all together and using a threaded rod or carriage bolt of some sort.
          John you make a good point about being limited in adjustment by the clearance hole and spring seat interfering.
          Harold, I am thinking for the plate underneath, I might just cut the center out of some stock top mounts that I have laying around since they are OEM fitment.
          In the end, is that easier, more cost-efficient, and roughly as effective as getting the Konis shortened?

          I don't know the cost or time involved but another member here was offered free shock shortening. Granted, IIRC, that was a result of a one-to-one conversation at PRI with MCS but, I believe, the rationale for free service was that motorsports-focused shocks should accommodate a lowered car.
          Brian K.
          #16
          Car Wh0re

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          • #6
            I would at least get shortening quoted. Of course the other thing to think about is downtime during autox season, which drives a lot of decisions around here! You can work on parts that you can install at home and still use the car vs sending off your shocks for weeks. Koni does not do any revalving or building internally anymore. The only time Koni does that work is at nats. So if you wanted to quote lead time and cost , I would contact Pro Parts out in CA and see what Jeff has to say. He is kind of rushing a revalve of my TC Klines (Koni 8242's) after spring nats. But, shortening the bodies will likely take some time, so it may not fit with autox events this summer
            2001 S2000


            Originally posted by 86SVO
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            • #7
              probably best to just raise it up a 1/4 inch. god knows what the lower suspension arm angles are doing with it that low anyway.
              2016 plans unknown. Have winter storage, tools and money.

              #carsnotkids

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              • #8
                Originally posted by gerglumuff View Post
                probably best to just raise it up a 1/4 inch. god knows what the lower suspension arm angles are doing with it that low anyway.
                yeah that's what I've done for now.

                Originally posted by engifineer View Post
                I would at least get shortening quoted. Of course the other thing to think about is downtime during autox season, which drives a lot of decisions around here! You can work on parts that you can install at home and still use the car vs sending off your shocks for weeks. Koni does not do any revalving or building internally anymore. The only time Koni does that work is at nats. So if you wanted to quote lead time and cost , I would contact Pro Parts out in CA and see what Jeff has to say. He is kind of rushing a revalve of my TC Klines (Koni 8242's) after spring nats. But, shortening the bodies will likely take some time, so it may not fit with autox events this summer
                Yeah I will get a quote, but would wait till fall to ship them off. And yeah, part of the "fun" for me is DIY-ing and saving some $$$. I assume shipping alone would be $25-$50 bucks for the struts, plus a few hundred for shortening not to mention being unable to hear VTEC kick in for some time . Maybe I should buy some 8611 race inserts instead at that point... Well, if I start tinkering with some top mounted plates, I'll be sure to update the thread with progress.

                ​​​​

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